Garden Shopping Like a Parisian

Hopefully you’ve enjoyed my blogs about my recent trip to Paris.  From a gardener’s standpoint, Versailles and Giverny were just amazing. The two gardens are totally different and unique in their own distinctive way. 

Another spectacular garden that’s worth your time is Luxemburg Gardens.  It’s in the center of Paris, and encompasses 60 acres.   As are most gardens in Paris, it’s just plain gorgeous.  It’s a block from the Sorbonne, so it’s common to see college students studying in the well-manicured lawns under the Chestnut trees. 

In addition, children with motorized boats set sail in the large pond there, joining Parisians having a picnic lunch and tourists taking in all that is Paris.  There are marble statues, citrus trees in Versailles planters, and lead sculptures throughout the garden.  I found an ample selection of charming garden shops in the streets surrounding Luxembourg Gardens.  My husband and I spent a sunny afternoon discovering them for the first time.

First of all, I have to dispel the myth that Parisians are snooty and snobbish.  Every shop and restaurant owner I encountered greeted me with a smile- I spoke slowly, using hand gestures, hoping that I was understood.  They appreciated that I was trying my best and, together, we muddled through.  Absolutely everyone went out of his or her way to be helpful.

The largest amount of nurseries and garden-related shops are directly across the street from the famous Notre Dame Cathedral.  You’ll find a selection of 10 or 12 stores that sell everything from trees, shrubs, orchids, seeds and bulbs, garden ornaments and botanical soaps. 

I do believe that trends- fashion or otherwise, begin in Paris.  Boxwood topiaries are always in style and easy to find.  They were potted up in beautiful terra cotta pots or metal urns.  You won’t find any flimsy, inexpensive plastic containers in Paris! 

Succulents are getting popular in the states and were sold in many of the shops in Paris.  I saw Fig trees everywhere.  Most shops stocked them, and they were available in all sizes and price ranges.  They popped up in nearly every garden we toured and were also ingredients used extensively in restaurants, especially in dessert dishes. 

When I was at Bowood Farm a few months ago, I noticed that they had a nice selection for sale.  I am considering one next year for a secluded spot in my back yard.

Most of the nurseries across from Notre Dame sold packages of seeds.  Cosmos in all colors are very big in Paris and you could snap up many unusual varieties of Cosmo seeds in the shops.  I saw them planted at Versailles, Giverny, Luxembourg Garden and en masse in the gardens behind Notre Dame.  I intend to plant a selection of them next year in my own garden.  They’re a great cut flower, germinate quickly and will be a constant reminder of my trip.

Just one street from Luxembourg Gardens we happened upon a stunning floral display and decided to stop in and take a look.  Stanislas Draber was a small store that packed fresh flowers, antique garden accessories and lovely pots in the most artistic setting.  Where else but Paris could you buy a small terra cotta pot and have it wrapped as if it was a priceless antique?   My little 5 euro pot came wrapped in tissue, packed in an orange, heavyweight cardboard bag, finished with a lovely card affixed to the front of the bag and secured with a pearl hatpin. 

I saved the bag because it specks volumes- even an inexpensive item is treated as a treasure in Paris!

Another fabulous garden shop is directly across the street from Luxembourg Gardens.  D’Olaria had the most outrageous patio umbrella in front of the store.  It was a lovely slate blue color and adorned with shiny silver charms along the umbrellas hem.  When the wind hit it, the charms sparkled like little gems.  I don’t know if it would hold up in hot St. Louis sun, but it was the most creative, eye-catching umbrella I’ve ever seen. 

D’Olaria also had the most charming tin medallions.   They had embossed designs of a tree, watering can and garden tools.  I used them to tag my favorite trees.  My pen of choice was a black paint pen- I wrote the botanical name of the tree on the back of the medallion.  It will age beautifully and remind me of the shop whenever I see it.

I am saving the best garden shopping experience for last.  On the day that we visited Giverny, there was an open-air antique market that sold charming, unusual garden items.  French terra cotta pots that I previously purchased on eBay for big bucks were a mere 3 euro at one shop owner’s stall.  

Another vendor had a massive selection of antique French watering cans.  My friend, Judy collects them and would have been thrilled at the selection.  Unfortunately, they were too big to bring back to St. Louis so they stayed in France. 

The same vendor had a huge galvanized metal tub.  I don’t know if it was a horse trough or on outdoor bathtub. I do know that it was out of this world!  

Plants were available for purchase as well.  One of my favorite plants, Verbena bonarensis, was a pricey 5 euro a pot.  At home, I rarely pay more than a buck or two for it. 

Hydrangeas of all types were for sale, as well as fig trees.  Like I said before, fig trees are everywhere!  Water lilies were very expensive at 39 euros a pot.  Being inspired by the amazing lilies at Giverny, I did notice that some customers were picking up a few, perhaps to remind them of a great day at Giverny. 

Since I couldn’t bring plants back to the states, and I didn’t have an empty suitcase, I left the open-air market empty handed and a little depressed.  What a horticultural high it would have been to have plants from Giverny growing in my own backyard.

Looking back on the availability of unusual and antique garden accessories in France made me think about the way we decorate our gardens in the states.  Great gardens have that “little something” that makes them stand out from all the rest. 

It might be an antique fountain from France or a weathered terra cotta pot from Italy.  Glazed ceramic birdbaths from Portugal surely trump its concrete counterpart from Home Goods.  What I learned was this: one great, high-quality garden accessory is worth ten average, mass-manufactured items.  More is not always better.